The short answer
Stop somewhere safe before you fix anything. Plug punctures in the tread, never the sidewall. Change wheels on the firmest, flattest ground you can find, with a base under the jack. If the engine runs hot, stop and let it cool fully before you open anything.
Carry
- A tire plug kit and a 12V compressor
- A jack, wheel brace and a base plate
- Traction boards, which also work as a jack base
- Coolant and water, in small amounts
- Gloves, a torch and a first aid kit
Never
- Get under a car held only by a jack
- Jack on soft ground without a base
- Open a hot radiator cap
- Plug a cut sidewall
- Keep driving with the temperature gauge high
A puncture
The Jimny runs radial tubeless tires, so a small puncture in the tread can usually be plugged on the spot. A plug is a temporary repair, so get the tire checked properly afterward.
- Stop somewhere safe. Get off the track if you can, and apply the handbrake.
- Find the leak. Listen for a hiss, or spray soapy water on the tread and look for bubbles. Leave the object in until you are ready.
- Remove the object. Pull it out with pliers, and note the direction it went in.
- Ream the hole. Push the reaming tool in and out a few times to clean and size it.
- Insert the plug. Thread a plug into the insertion tool, push it in, and pull the tool out, leaving the plug in the hole.
- Trim and reinflate. Cut the plug flush, inflate with the compressor, and check for leaks with soapy water.
- Get it checked. Have the tire inspected soon, and drive gently until you do.
Plug the tread only. A cut or bulging sidewall cannot be plugged, and usually means a new tire. If a tire has come off the rim, or the damage is large, fit the spare instead.
Changing a wheel on soft ground
A jack sinks into sand and mud, and a car falling off a jack is dangerous. Take your time, and use a base.
- Pick the firmest, flattest spot. Move the car a few metres if you have to, even on a flat tire.
- Secure the car. Apply the handbrake and put it in gear, or in P on an automatic. Put chocks or rocks against the other wheels.
- Get the spare and tools ready. The Jimny carries its spare on the tailgate, so take it off before you start.
- Loosen the wheel nuts. Turn them about half a turn with the wheel brace while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Put a base under the jack. A wide board, a flat rock or a traction board stops it sinking.
- Use the jacking points in your manual. Lift only as high as you need, and never put any part of your body under the car.
- Swap the wheel. Fit the spare, and hand-tighten the nuts in a star pattern.
- Lower the car and tighten. Tighten the nuts fully, in a star pattern, to the torque in your manual.
- Recheck soon. Check the nuts again after a few kilometres, and have the pressure and torque checked properly later.
Your manual has the numbers. The wheel nut torque and the jacking points are in your owner's manual, so use those rather than a figure from a forum. The factory jack is made for a firm, level surface, so treat it as a last resort on soft ground.
Overheating
Slow, high-rev work in low range, hot weather and a clogged radiator all push the engine temperature up. Catch it early, because driving on with the gauge high can wreck an engine.
- Stop as soon as the gauge climbs. Pull over somewhere safe, and turn the air conditioning off.
- Keep the engine ticking over for a short while. A little airflow helps. If you see steam or the gauge is in the red, switch off.
- Open the bonnet, carefully. It lets heat out. Do not open the radiator cap, because the coolant is under pressure and can scald you.
- Wait until it has cooled completely. This can take 30 minutes or more.
- Look for the cause. Check for mud or grass blocking the radiator, a low coolant level, leaks and loose hoses.
- Top up only when cool. Add coolant, or water in an emergency, slowly.
- Restart and watch the gauge. If it climbs again, stop and call for help.
Prevention
- Keep the radiator clear of mud, grass and debris
- Keep the coolant topped up before each trip
- In low range, avoid long, slow runs with little airflow, and pause to cool
- Keep an eye on the gauge on long, slow climbs
When to stop and ask for help
- Any fault involving the steering or the brakes
- A tire damaged in the sidewall or off the rim
- An engine that overheats a second time
- Water in the engine or a stalled engine after a crossing, which you should not restart
- Anything on a steep slope, in moving water or in fading light
See the recovery guide for pulling a car out, the water crossings guide for stalls, and the recovery kit checklist for what to carry.
What is wrong?
Tap the problem to see the safe first move.
Tap a problem (6 to try)
First move for Slow puncture
- First move
- -
- Why
- -
Common mistakes
- Jacking on soft ground with no base. The jack sinks and the car drops.
- Getting under a jacked car. Never, for any reason.
- Plugging a sidewall. It is unsafe and cannot be trusted.
- Opening a hot radiator cap. Scalding coolant can cause serious burns.
- Driving on with the gauge in the red. It can wreck the engine in minutes.
- Forgetting to torque the wheel nuts. Loose wheels can come off.
- Leaving the repair to chance. Practise with your kit at home, before you need it.
A final word. Roadside repairs carry a real risk of injury from falling vehicles, hot coolant and traffic. This guide is general information, not a substitute for your owner's manual. If you are unsure or the situation is unsafe, stop and call for help.