The short answer
Try to get yourself out first. If you need a pull, use rated gear on rated points, keep everyone well clear, and go slowly. Most recovery damage and injuries come from the wrong gear used the wrong way.
Carry
- Traction boards and a short shovel
- A tire deflator and a 12V compressor
- A kinetic rope rated for a light vehicle, with two soft shackles
- Rated bow shackles for fixed recovery points
- Gloves, a headlamp and a first-aid kit
- A recovery damper, or a heavy blanket
Never
- Pull from the tow ball, bumpers, roof racks or suspension parts
- Use a rope that is far stronger than your vehicle needs
- Join two ropes with a bow shackle
- Stand in line with a rope under load
- Keep spinning the wheels once they start to dig
The recovery kit
You do not need everything on day one. Start with the first four items and build up as your trips get more serious.
| Item | What it does | Jimny note |
|---|---|---|
| Traction boards | Give stuck tires something to climb on sand, mud and loose ground. | Light and compact. Watch your roof rack limits and payload. |
| Shovel | Digging out is the most underrated recovery tool. | A short folding shovel stores easily in the cabin. |
| Deflator and compressor | Lower pressure for grip, then reinflate on firm ground. | Carry a 12V compressor you trust. |
| Kinetic rope | Stores energy as it stretches to ease a stuck vehicle free. | Must be rated for a light vehicle. See the next section. |
| Soft shackles | Connect the rope to rated points without metal hardware flying free. | Rated higher than the rope, so the rope is the weak link. |
| Bow shackles | Connect to fixed, rated recovery points. | Match the rating to the recovery points. Never use one to join two ropes. |
| Recovery damper | Weighs the rope down if something fails. | A heavy blanket or jacket is better than nothing. |
| Gloves, headlamp, first aid | Protect your hands, and let you work after dark. | Keep them within reach, not buried in the back. |
Choosing the right rope
Rope and strap makers recommend a minimum breaking strength between 2 and 3 times the gross vehicle mass (GVM), and the rope must suit the lighter of the two vehicles. Your GVM is on the compliance plate or in the owner's handbook.
| GVM of the lighter vehicle | Minimum breaking strength |
|---|---|
| 1,400 kg | 2,800 to 4,200 kg |
| 1,435 kg (the 3-door's plate figure) | 2,870 to 4,305 kg |
| 1,500 kg | 3,000 to 4,500 kg |
| 1,600 kg | 3,200 to 4,800 kg |
| 2,000 kg | 4,000 to 6,000 kg |
| 2,500 kg | 5,000 to 7,500 kg |
Why not just buy the strongest?
A rope that is too strong will not stretch properly, which puts more stress on the recovery points. Many popular kinetic ropes are rated at 8,000 to 12,000 kg and are made for heavier vehicles. For a Jimny, look for a rope designed for light vehicles, or ask the maker which of its ropes suits your GVM.
Rope care
- Soft shackles must be rated higher than the rope, so the rope is the part that fails first.
- A wet rope is weaker and stretches differently, so recover with it dry if you can.
- Check for cuts, burns and fraying before every use, and retire a damaged rope.
- Avoid kinks and twists, and do not wrap it tightly straight after a recovery. Let it rest and dry first.
Recovery points
The rope is only as safe as what it is attached to. Recovery loads can be far higher than towing loads, especially in a snatch.
Use
- Factory recovery points. Check your handbook for where they are and what they are rated for.
- Rated aftermarket recovery points bolted to the chassis
Do not use
- The tow ball
- Bumpers or bull bars that are not rated
- Roof racks and roof bars
- Axles, springs or other suspension parts
Recover yourself first
Most stuck Jimnys can free themselves with a little digging and a set of boards. It is faster, safer and gentler on your gear than a pull.
- Stop spinning the wheels. Take your foot off the throttle as soon as the wheels start to dig, then get out and look.
- Read the situation. Where are the wheels, what is touching the ground, and which way out is easiest? Often it is back the way you came.
- Air down if you are on soft ground. In sand, about 15 to 18 psi helps. Make sure you can reinflate afterward.
- Dig. Clear a ramp in front of each driven wheel, and remove any ground resting under the chassis or diffs.
- Lay the boards. Wedge them firmly against the front of the driven tires, angled down into the dig.
- Crawl out. Select 4L and first gear, then use steady, gentle throttle. Keep rolling until you are well onto firm ground, then collect the boards.
For the 4L procedure, see the low-range use guide.
An assisted pull, step by step
When digging and boards are not enough, a pull from another vehicle can do it. Take your time on the setup. It matters more than the pull.
- Agree the plan. Decide who drives, which way the pull goes and what the hand signals are. Everyone else moves well clear, to the side and never in line with the rope.
- Check the gear. The rope and soft shackles must be rated for the lighter vehicle, with no cuts, burns or fraying.
- Connect to rated recovery points only. Use soft shackles, and never the tow ball, bumpers, roof racks or suspension.
- Lay the rope straight, with a little slack. No kinks or twists, and no two ropes joined with a bow shackle.
- Add a damper. Drape a recovery damper or a heavy blanket over the middle of the rope.
- Pull smoothly. The stuck driver selects 4L and first gear and helps gently. The recovery vehicle drives off steadily in a straight line and lets the rope stretch, without a long run-up.
- Stop and tidy up. Once free, stop gently, disconnect, inspect the rope, and let it dry before storing it loosely.
If it has not worked after a couple of attempts, stop and dig more. Repeated snatches can damage the rope and the recovery points.
Pick your situation
Tap what is happening to see the best first move.
Tap a situation (8 to try)
Best first move for Soft sand
- Try first
- -
- Kit
- -
- Why
- -
Common mistakes
- Pulling from the tow ball. It is made for towing, not for the shock loads of recovery.
- Attaching to bumpers, roof racks or suspension. They can tear off and become projectiles.
- Buying the strongest rope. A rope far too strong for a light vehicle does not stretch properly and loads the recovery points harder.
- Standing in line with the rope. Keep well clear, to the side, and never in the path behind either vehicle.
- Spinning the wheels. It digs you in deeper. Stop, dig and use the boards.
- Skipping the damper. It is cheap, and it matters when something fails.
- Joining two ropes with a bow shackle. Never do this.
- Using a Jimny to pull a heavy vehicle. Know the limits of a light car.
- Overloading the car with gear. A heavy kit eats into a small payload, so weigh it.