The short answer
Use low range when you need more pulling power and finer control at walking pace. If you are travelling faster than a brisk walk or jog, you almost certainly want 4H instead.
Use 4L for
- Steep climbs, especially loose or rocky ones
- Steep descents, where the engine does the braking
- Rock crawling and tight technical sections
- Deep or sticky mud at low speed
- Recovery work and getting out of a bog
- Slow, steady water crossings, once you know the depth is safe
Do not use 4L for
- Tarmac, concrete or any dry, hard surface
- Driving at speed or covering long distances
- Gravel tracks and easy dirt, where 4H is enough
- Most sand driving, where momentum matters more than torque
- Pushing the engine at high revs just to go faster
What low range does
Low range is an extra gear reduction inside the transfer case, about 2:1 on the Jimny. For the same engine speed, the wheels turn at roughly half the speed and with roughly double the force. In first gear that works out to a crawl ratio of about 31:1, against about 16:1 in 4H. Those figures are approximate, so check them for your market and gearbox.
The practical result is that you can move very slowly without slipping the clutch, keep the engine in a healthy rev range, and use the engine itself as a brake on the way down.
The Jimny is a part-time 4WD. Front and rear are locked together with no centre differential, so on a surface where the tires cannot slip, the driveline winds up. That is why 4H and 4L belong on loose or slippery ground only.
How to shift into low range
2H to 4H
Keep the front wheels pointing straight ahead and move the lever. This can be done while driving, at speeds up to about 100 km/h according to Suzuki's launch material. Many drivers lift off the accelerator briefly as they shift.
4H to 4L
This one needs the vehicle completely stopped.
- Stop completely. Find a loose or level spot, with the front wheels pointing straight ahead.
- Disengage the drive. On a manual, press the clutch pedal fully down. On an automatic, move the selector to N.
- Move the transfer lever to 4L. Follow the lever action in your manual, which on the Jimny involves pressing the lever and pulling it back. Do it firmly but without force.
- Check the dashboard. Look for the 4L indicator light. If it does not come on, re-check the lever position.
- Select a gear and set off gently. Expect the engine to rev higher than normal for the speed.
To come back out, stop again, repeat steps 1 and 2, move the lever back to 4H or 2H, and check that the light goes out before you drive on.
Driving in low range
Choose a gear and stay in it
For most trail work, first or second is right. Frequent gear changes mid-obstacle unsettle the car and lose momentum. On an automatic, hold the lowest positions rather than leaving it in D.
Smooth and steady beats fast
Squeeze the throttle and let the tires keep working. Wheelspin digs holes. Release the clutch slowly and avoid slipping it to control speed, since that burns the clutch. Low range exists so you do not have to.
Going downhill
Select first or second in 4L and let the engine hold you back. Keep your feet off the clutch and out of neutral, because coasting removes your engine braking. The Jimny also has Hill Descent Control, which Suzuki says holds about 10 km/h in 4H and about 5 km/h in 4L, using the brakes for you. Steer, and let it work.
Traction control helps, so let it
The Jimny's brake limited-slip system brakes a spinning wheel and sends torque to the one with grip. Suzuki notes an extra-power mode that is active below about 30 km/h in low range. Keep the throttle steady and give it time to act.
Watch the temperature
Slow crawling means little airflow over the radiator and high revs for the speed. On long, slow climbs, keep an eye on the temperature gauge and stop to let the engine cool if it climbs.
Which mode for which ground
| Situation | Mode | Gear | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tarmac or dry road | 2H | Normal | Never use 4WD on hard, dry surfaces. |
| Gravel, dirt tracks, wet roads | 2H or 4H | Normal | 4H adds grip and stability. Stay at sensible speeds. |
| Snow | 4H | 2nd or 3rd | Go gently on the throttle and brakes. |
| Sand | 4H | 2nd to 4th | Air down and keep momentum. Use 4L only to crawl out or if you are stuck. |
| Mud | 4H, or 4L if deep | 2nd | Steady throttle and a straight line. Avoid sudden steering. |
| Rocks and technical sections | 4L | 1st | Pick your line, then go slowly and smoothly. |
| Steep climb | 4L | 1st or 2nd | Build a little momentum, then hold steady throttle. |
| Steep descent | 4L | 1st | Engine braking plus Hill Descent Control. No clutch, no neutral. |
| Water crossing | 4L | 2nd | Only when depth is known to be safe. Move steadily and do not stop midway. |
| Recovery or being pulled out | 4L | 1st | Gentle power, no jerks on straps or ropes. |
Treat this as a starting point. Surface, load, tire pressure and your own experience all change the best answer.
Pick your ground
Tap a surface to see which mode and gear to start with.
Tap a surface (10 to try)
Best start for Rocks
- Mode
- -
- Gear
- -
- Why
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Common mistakes
- Leaving 4WD engaged on tarmac. You will feel the car bind in turns and hear it. Switch back to 2H as soon as the ground is hard.
- Shifting into 4L while rolling. Always stop completely, and press the clutch or select N first.
- Slipping the clutch instead of using low range. It overheats the clutch and defeats the point of 4L.
- Coasting downhill in neutral or with the clutch in. You lose engine braking just when you need it.
- Using 4L because it feels safer. At speed it runs the engine hard for no benefit. If you are going fast, use 4H.
- Mismatched tire sizes. Different diameters on one axle or between front and rear put strain on a part-time driveline. Carry a spare that matches.
- Forgetting to switch back after the trail. Check the dashboard light before you rejoin the road.